I find myself at the epicentre of a culinary mosaic at Loya at Taj Palace, New Delhi. It’s not just a pleasant dining venue, but rather a rhapsody of flavourful cuisine that comes together in a symphony on my plate.
A bit poetic, I know, but my culinary journey here is as diverse and vibrant as the Northern landscape, resonating in every bite I take.
The moment I step inside, I am charmed by the setting. The place feels comfortable with enough space for every table and a sense of relaxed bonhomie on account of the vibrant drapes, striking canopies, and colourful awnings. This visual medley takes me back in time, stirring up a nostalgic connection to the historic princely tents of yore.
The distinctive furniture around me is another intriguing facet of Loya. The pieces were inspired by traditional Indian ‘khatia’ and ‘peeda’, masterfully crafted from logwood and adorned with copper embellishments, lending an authentic Indian charm to the ambience.
Adjacent to this vibrant setting is a glass-fronted kitchen, where I can see the chefs at work, masters at their job, amidst the flickering flames of the sigdis, rolling pins, smoking clay pots and iron kadhais on the stove. The sight is a fascinating preamble to the culinary surprise that awaits me.
First things first – a potent Cocktail philosophy
The best way to raise a toast to the evening is at the bar! We moved to the bar and looked up the five tenets of Loya’s cocktail philosophy — Harmony, Experimentation, Authenticity, Reverence, and The Spirit, collectively symbolizing the ‘Heart” of the North. It takes a lot of spirit, pun intended, to create an ingenious spin on drinks, inspired by the significance of the number ‘5’ theme that is reflected across the interiors of the restaurant.
‘Panjj’ or ‘Paanch’, signifying ‘five’, pays homage to the five rivers of the North to the five senses, the five elements of life, and more intimately, the bar! I eagerly delved into the ‘Paanch’ sections of the menu, ready to savour a taste of the North’s botanical richness, old techniques, and traditional ingredients. This was no ordinary drink selection, it was a truly intoxicating journey brought to life by a choice of potent Indian spirits!
A great meal
Our menu is selected keeping in mind the kind of authentic dishes that bring to the forefront robust flavours and traditional cooking styles. After all, this is the food of the soldiers of the north, the native tribes, the fierce warriors – rather than the opulence of their kings.
Explains Chef Manushka Kapoor, “We go back to culinary traditions, processes, cooking utensils, of ingredients and bring every day of this extraordinary region to your table. Every care has been taken to keep this great culinary culture authentic,”
We take our time to order Chapli Paratha and Timbri Jhinga as appetizers. The Timbri Jinga is marinated prawns is served with a flavourful pahadi chutney that is fresh and tangy. For mains, we try Dum Nalli, Kangra Khodiya Gosht and Dal Jhakiya accompanied by layered Gola Paratha and the lentil-stuffed Amritsar Wadi Kulcha.
The Kangra Khodiya Ghosht, a Pahari speciality is definitely one of the standout dishes at Loya. This mutton curry, enriched with charred walnut ink, is a remarkable blend of modernist cuisine presentation and traditional flavours. The pahadi Dal Jakhiya is certainly a surprise although the presentation and aromas pique our interest the moment the aromas waft across the table. What a great mix of moong and arhar lentils tempered with wild mustard, or jakhiya!
For dessert, Loya offers a tasting board of kulfi pops, each with unique flavours like rose and saffron-cardamom. I find the entire meal is a delicious and balanced coming together of seasonal produce, farm-raised organic meats and fresh spice blends, ground in-house. The personal touch throughout the meal by Divya, our charming hostess makes for a delightful experience.
Culinary philosophy behind the Menu
Curious about the unique dishes and the remarkable menu at Loya, I decide to ask Chef Manushka Kapoor at Loya about the secret behind their culinary magic. I am told that Master Chefs at the Taj embarked on journeys into the remote interiors of North India, seeking out homes of families that have preserved authentic recipes, unique cooking styles, and unusual dish preparations over generations.
This culinary exploration resulted in an extraordinary collection of North India’s most cherished recipes, now being presented in Loya’s menu to food lovers and gourmet diners. I marvel at how these dishes spotlight the inherent uniqueness and theatrics of time-honoured cooking techniques of the North. The dramatic “dhungar” or smoking method, the aromatic “baghar” technique of tempering spices in hot oil, the richness of slow-cooked “dum” dishes, and the energetic hand-pounding of spices — all have a story to tell.
Chef Manushka Kapoor sums it up perfectly, “Loya offers the warmth and comfort of the past intersecting with the energy of today. It’s a place where time-honoured techniques, forgotten culinary traditions, and family-preserved ingredients are proudly showcased.”
Design Philosophy at Loya, Taj Palace
My eyes are often drawn to the unique design philosophy of the restaurant reflecting around the idea of ‘Paanch’ or five concepts. Embodying this philosophy were five distinct patterns etched on the walls, combining Rajasthani jharokhas, stone jalis, and Mughal ornamentation in rustic sandstone textures.
I am told that ‘Loya’ is a Pashtun term signifying a gathering for a feast. Indeed, every meal here seems meticulously designed to indulge while upholding its rooted philosophy. I learn it took four long years of researching ingredients, curating a culinary vision, and crafting each dish so that it seamlessly blends into this grand mosaic. And this is palpable, not just in the food and drinks, but even in the finer details of the decor.
I don’t know how many guests take the time to delve into the concept of a restaurant, but the fact is that the essence of Loya is an immersive celebration of the North’s bold traditions, flavours, and aesthetics.
The Loya Album – a game changer
Loya, as the first restaurant in India to launch its own music album, stands as a game-changer in the industry. This album, a brainchild of the talented Shreyas Patkar, resonates with a blend of classical, indie, and instrumental sets, even featuring an exclusive anthem.
Crafted by a team of musicians including Tapas Roy, Sandeep Mishra, and Preetam, the album is an eclectic mix of instruments — the Bouzouki, Rabab, Oud, Mandolin, Sarangi, and Guitar. Kudos to the creative geniuses, Jimmy & Ashish Anand, who masterminded the arrangement and mix-mastering of this auditory gem.
This album, for me, was more than just a collection of musical tracks. It was an ode to the spirit of Loya, creating sensory memories of aromatic dishes while nostalgically encapsulating India’s rich cultural heritage.
As a lover of both music and food, I found this to be a refreshing experience, a delightful symphony of tastes and tunes.
Read more: Latest
