Here is a menswear brand, with a focus on men’s shirts, works with artisan tailors in Jaipur, India, and uses Indian heritage techniques to create unique, one-off designs, that combine Eastern practices with contemporary design.

Female founders Nam Thaker and Jess Henrich, who are from India and Cape Town, want to protect these age-old heritage techniques to create men’s shirts, whilst combining and celebrating their combined love of travel, colour and fashion with a range of individually woven and block printed menswear. They work closely with small collectives of artisans in India, bringing in the influences of Jaipur and Mumbai, to bring them to life, rather than relying on large factories and mass production. This not only supports traditional craftsmanship but also creates a sense of community and empowerment among these artisans. 

These heritage techniques are used by a small team of Indian female artisans, to create the one-off pieces, thus preserving the history of these practices and why it’s so important to preserve them. 

Limited Edition Shirts

The brand is reimagining men’s shirts with its range of fun, vibrant and standout designs in a collection that offers unique and contemporary limited edition shirts that are breaking the mould when it comes to style and design.

The collection features meticulously crafted block print cotton shirts and woven ikat, each showcasing designs and prints that are sure to make a statement and ensure a truly unique product.

The brand prioritises the use of lightweight and soft organic cotton, ensuring that their shirts are not only stylish but also perfect for the balmy, dreamy days of summer. Through block printing and woven ikat heritage design techniques, each garment is a work of art in itself, where colour, composition and culture combine, inviting the wearer to push the boundaries of modern-day menswear design. 

‘We wanted to bring some fun and colour into menswear and build a brand that celebrates freedom of expression and a lust for life. We are travel lovers and constant seekers of other lands and new experiences, it’s in our bones. We wanted to create clothing that deeply embodies this spirit, whilst still being beautifully made and classically fitted.” Says Jess Henrich, co-founder of the brand.

“In essence, our mission is to redefine men’s fashion by blending heritage techniques with small-scale artisanal sourcing, whilst creating clothing that is fun, exciting and enjoyable to wear, and brings joy back to the male wardrobe. We aspire to create the finest men’s shirts in the world, where every purchase represents a commitment to unique style, design and ethical practices,” said Nam Thaker, co-founder of Otherland.

About Nam Thaker and Jess Henrich

Nam and Jess grew up in places where colour is celebrated. Jess spent most of her childhood in Kenya on the island of Lamu, and Nam constantly travelled between India, Malaysia and London. Both have a long-standing love affair with India, Nam because of her heritage, and Jess grew up with an Indian Godfather, and extended family so was immersed in Indian culture and all its gorgeous colours and magic from birth.

Both have travelled extensively all their lives and exploration is woven deeply into the brand ethos. It’s a brand for the non-conformists, those who challenge the status quo and forge their paths. 

Jess’ favourite design technique is the hand-woven Ikat, and Nam’s is hand-block printing. 

Shirts fall into three categories.

MULMUL

The Mul range, is the lightest organic cotton. There are loads of digital replicas of this fabric in the world so the founders need to be stringent about pure organic cotton and hand block prints.

CLASSIC COTTON

A tiny bit heavier than our light but still a regular cotton shirt feel. Hand block printed.

IKAT

The same weight as Classic but a different production method, involving contrast dyeing warp or weft yarns pre-weaving,

BLOCK PRINTING

Block printing by hand is a very skilful and labour-intensive art that requires extensive experience to master. Each pattern is first drawn and then hand-carved into wooden blocks. The blocks are then dipped into a dye and hand-stamped by eye onto reels of organic cotton by skilled artisans who layer the patterns if the design is multi-coloured.

This means that compared to other methods (screen prints, digital prints) often dishonestly sold as ‘block printed’, it takes longer to make, has less ‘perfect’ outcomes and is more expensive.

Whilst variability is something some people may not appreciate, these imperfections are what make each piece so special and irresistibly unique. These variations are usually quite subtle, and they are how you can tell if it is an authentic hand-block print item.

Each pattern is first drawn, then hand carved into a wooden block (+/-3 weeks) then this block, or blocks, depending on the complexity of the pattern, are dipped in dye and hand-stamped on reels of cotton, using only the skill of the artisan. They eyeball it, it is incredible how accurate and fast these artists are.

Each block carries one colour, that is ( if a multi-coloured shirt) then printed over with succeeding colours. The fabric is then fixed, washed and left to dry before it goes to the tailors.

IKAT

Woven cotton is otherwise known as Ikat. Ikat is said to have originated from Indonesia and is a very specific way of weaving cotton. Ikat fabrics are beautiful, intriguing and always in style. The pattern is not applied to the surface of a finished fabric nor is it woven into the fabric structurally. Instead, part of the yarn is protected before dyeing, colouring everywhere except under the binding to create an almost tie-dye like effect.

While other types of patterning come in and out of fashion, there is something about Ikat that manages to always stay relevant.

  These too have printed varieties but the founders don’t want it to just look woven, it’s got to be woven. The true method is a complex and time-consuming one, colouring fabric in patterns by resist dyeing. The pattern is not applied to the surface of a finished fabric, nor is it woven into the fabric structurally. Instead, parts of the yarns for the warp and/or weft are protected with a resist before dyeing.

The dye then colours the yarn everywhere except under the binding, kind of like tie-dye, but on individual yarn. After dyeing, the resist bindings are removed and the pattern appears undyed on a coloured background. When dyeing is complete, the yarn is then woven into fabric.  

 BELTS

Gorgeous leather belts are hand-beaded using a traditional technique from the Maasai artisans from Kenya. The Maasai are known to be one of the oldest and culturally rich communities. They are a Nilotic ethnic group, predominantly settled in Kenya and northern Tanzania.

In the Maasai tribe, traditionally it is considered a social duty for women to learn how to make beaded jewellery. The jewellery is not only a symbol of beauty but is also seen as a cultural and social symbol. For important ceremonies or rituals, Maasai women make jewellery for their family members, and the warriors are adorned with many layers of colourful beads. Taking this a step further we have the Maasai beaded belt.

The founders work with a women’s collective which means each belt is hand-stitched by one person before being shipped out. First, the thread is made by unravelling grain bags and weaving a super strong- and upcycled thread, and then each bead is strung on thread, and manually punched through the leather in predesigned patterns ( often rough sketches). It takes on average 4 days for one of these belts to be made.

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A trip to the city of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu is definitely in order if you dream of visiting India and experiencing a unique blend of culture, history, and traditional style.

For centuries, this ancient walled city has been renowned for its exquisite handwoven silk sarees. Each six-yard spread outdazzle with an intricacy of pattern and colours guaranteed to take your breath away!

Whether it’s handed down through generations as a keepsake or donned at weddings and special occasions, Kanchipuram sarees are truly something magical that links us all together. Explore the old streets of Kanchipuram today – get ready to encounter one hundred temples and timelessly beautiful weaves!

The queen of Indian silks is Kanchivaram or Kanchipuram

The queen of Indian silks is Kanchivaram. Exquisite texture, delicate feel, quality, craftsmanship, exceptional weaving technique, and pleasing colour combinations distinguish it.

In a single saree, the entire culture of South India may be seen. It has shown its usefulness all over the globe since its origin in a little Tamilnadu town. Indian women’s wardrobes aren’t complete without at least one kanchi saree. From generation to generation, it has retained its prominence in the eyes of clients. Wearing a Kanchipuram saree at festivals and rituals is a mark of auspiciousness, even if it has lost its classic beauty.

Silk sarees are a traditional style statement in India, with six yards of beauty and grace. Every state has its own silk saree with its own weaving and style, and Tamil Nadu’s is the Kanchipuram saree.

For its traditional style, sumptuous feel, and history that goes with each pattern, this remarkable saree finds a valued position in closets across the country. Weavers in Kanchipuram, the city of a hundred temples, skillfully weave sarees in brilliant colours with designs and a zari (border) made of high-quality gold or silk thread to be donned at weddings and other special occasions.

This style of saree has a long history

The famed Kanjeevaram or Kanchipuram saree weaving dates back 400 years and is based in the little town of Kanchipuram (Tamil Nadu). The art truly took off during the time of Krishna Devaraya (of the Vijayanagara Empire). The Devangas and Saligars, two important weaving groups in Andhra Pradesh, came to Kanchipuram. They wove silk sarees with pictures of texts and sculptures seen on temples across the town, demonstrating their great weaving talents.

Sarees are also mentioned in Indian mythology. Kanchipuram’s weavers are claimed to be the heirs of God’s master weaver. The sarees made here are renowned for all ceremonies performed not only by Tamils but also by people from other states. Kanchipuram offers a wide selection of silk sarees at different prices owing to the finesse and work involved. Due to the obviously large amount of silk saris made here each year, it is known as the “Silk Capital.”

How this stunning silk saree is woven and designed

Pure mulberry silk thread is used to weave the saris. Kanchipuram saris are made with fine mulberry silk and Zari, both of which are imported from South India. Three shuttles are needed to weave a Kanchipuram sari. Whilst the weaver is working on the right shuttle, his assistant is working on the left shuttle.

The border is frequently a distinct colour and pattern from the body. If the mundhi (the sari’s hanging end) needs to be woven in a different colour, it is first woven separately and then gently connected to the Sari. A zigzag line generally marks the point where the body joins the mundhi.

The body and border of an authentic Kanchipuram Silk Sari are woven separately and then fused together. The warp framework used to weave this cloth contains around 60 holes, with 240 warp threads and 250 to 3000 weft threads, giving it a robust feel. The pallu, border, and core of the saree are typically woven separately and then joined with great care and accuracy.

As the colour and patterns of the body and the pallu are so dissimilar, weavers weave them separately and then connect them together. A zigzag design (known as the pitni) may be seen where the body joins the pallu. It’s also extremely typical to weave the saree’s border separately before joining the three together. The connecting of the three (known as korvai) is performed with such perfection that the borders will not separate even if the saree splits.

The zari is also exceptionally highly durable, as it is constructed of three silk threads interwoven with a silver wire. This, meanwhile, can increase the weight of a Kanjeevaram saree, making it as thick as two kilos.

Kanchipuram silk sarees have included temple figures and mythical legends in their designs since their origin. The saree’s border has temple, palace, and general painting patterns, while the body features pyramidal temple patterns, checks, stripes, and flowery patterns. Over time, more symbolic patterns such as fruits, creatures, birds, the sun and moon, and even mythological stories have supplanted conventional and popular stripes or solid gold dot designs.

You can get a range of colours – all the way from a pink Kanchipuram silk saree to peacock blue Kanchipuram silk saree to maroon Kanchipuram silk saree. You only have to ask the shop keeper the colour that you are looking for or as likely he will ask you – ” Do you want this magenta Kanchipuram silk saree or navy blue Kanchipuram silk saree?”

Famed GI tag for the Kanchipuram saree

Kanchipuram sarees have been brought under the Geographical Indication Act to highlight the ancient Indian heritage. Kancheepuram sarees are India’s most enticing and magnificent sarees, originating in the Tamilnadu region of Kancheepuram. The silk board of India only awards the silk mark to pure Kanchipuram sarees, and this label on the saree is proof of its authenticity.

Kanchipuram sarees were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) by the Indian government in 2006, giving them a unique identity and acknowledgement in India and across the world. This (GI) marking has proven to be a milestone in the development of the Kanchipuram brand. It shall maintain standard weight, quality, and Jari mark as specified in the act’s criteria, according to this (GI). With the introduction of the Kanchipuram saree, sales have increased in many countries (GI).

Traditional Kanchipuram sarees turn to modern style statements

Real, one-of-a-kind, and hand-picked handloom silk sarees from all across South India enhance a woman’s elegance and flair. Consumer preferences are shifting, particularly from classic handlooms to beautiful light sarees, signalling the need for the sector to restructure its production strategies to meet changing demand trends. Power looms have now surpassed handlooms in terms of ease and speed of production. Both demand and supply have risen as a result of the use of ICT (Information and Communication Technology) in the manufacturing and marketing processes.

The use of Computer-Aided Design (CAD) / Computer Aided Motif (CAM) has led to the development of new contemporary border and pallu designs. Kanchipuram sarees have seen a makeover as well. Traditional Kancheepuram sarees are embellished with embroidery and crystals.

Because lightweight Kanchi sarees are in high demand, weavers use cotton and kora while making these sarees and you can ask for and get your choice in light Kanchipuram tissue silk saree. In today’s society, buyers want less expensive items with light colours and basic patterns. Weavers are making sarees with single corner borders to reduce the high cost of sarees and make them accessible to all types of clients.

Where to buy?  

Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, is without a doubt the greatest place to buy Kanchipuram sarees.

Price range

Kanchipuram sarees start at roughly 2.5k and may reach up to 2 to 3 lakh depending on the material and pattern.

How to know the authenticity when you buy?

Precisely 21 cooperative silk organisations and ten individual weavers are permitted to sell genuine Kanchipuram silk sarees in the city that bears their name. Make sure to look for the GI tag on every real Kanchipuram silk saree.

Quick notes about Kanchipuram silk sarees of Tamil Nadu

• Kanchipuram silk sarees are known to be the best quality silk sarees found in India. The intricate designs and patterns along with bright colors make them a popular choice for weddings and special occasions.
• The traditional silk weaving techniques used to create these beautiful sarees have been passed down from generation to generation. This rich cultural legacy is maintained even today, with skilled artisans using hand-operated looms to make the sarees.
• The town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu has a long history of silk weaving, which dates back to the 5th century BC. Over time, the tradition and skills involved have been perfected and the sarees have become known for their high quality and intricate designs.
• The sarees are usually made of Mulberry silk, which is produced by silkworms fed on special diets in order to produce the finest possible quality of yarn. The combination of this fine thread with complex weaving techniques makes Kanchipuram silks some of the most expensive sarees in the world.
• In addition to their traditional designs and motifs, many modern Kanchipuram silks also feature more contemporary patterns and colors. This has made them increasingly popular among younger women looking for a stylish yet timeless look.

• The complex and lengthy process of weaving a single Kanchipuram silk saree can take up to three months and involve many skilled artisans. This makes them a truly unique and special item that is treasured by its owners for years.
• The intricate designs of Kanchipuram silks often feature intricate zari work which involves threading gold, silver or even diamond-dusted threads into the fabric. This adds an extra layer of detail and luxury to the sarees, making them highly sought after.
• Kanchipuram silks are often gifted during special occasions such as weddings and anniversaries, as a way of showing respect and appreciation for one another. They are also a great way to show your love for traditional Indian culture.
• During the 19th century, Kanchipuram silks were exported to many countries around the world, including Britain and France. This helped spread the tradition of these beautiful sarees across the globe, making them even more popular in modern times.
• Kanchipuram silks are a symbol of Indian culture and heritage, and wearing them is an honor that is cherished by many people from all over the world. A true testament to this is the fact that these sarees continue to be popularly worn even today!

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